Rosebuds Tea Cosy

Rosebuds Tea Cosy

To fit a 6 cup Teapot measuring 44cm circ x 18cm high.
Cosy measures 42cm circ x 18cm high (stretches to fit).

I instantly fell in love with the colours & texture of the yarn I used for the body of the cosy & snatched it up one day, while I was shopping for something else. Knitted up on a tighter tension than recommended makes a wonderfully warm & stretchy tea cosy. It needs nothing but garter stitch with the yarn doing all the work, making it so simple. You can use the whole 15 rosebuds for your cosy or just a few if you prefer a simpler design.
Materials
The cosy is designed only for this specific yarn. I won't guarantee the same results from alternative yarns, but I'll list as much information as I can, if you can't source this specific yarn.

- Lincraft Big Wool 50g balls x 2 (approx 40m per 50g ball)
Colourway - pink/green/cream

The yarn is classed as Bulky & is thick & thin texture. The ball band tension is 10sts x 15 rows (10cm x 10cm) using 8mm needles.
However to achieve a thicker fabric for this cosy I used 6mm needles giving an approx tension of 12sts x 26 rows (10cm x 10cm) worked over garter stitch.

- Moda Vera Pure Wool 8ply (dk) - 50g balls x 2 in Dark Pink for Rosebuds.

- Moda Vera Pure Wool 8ply (dk) - 50g balls x 1 in Light Green for Leaves.
- 6mm needles
- 4mm needles

Front & Back Alike - make 2
 Using 6mm needles & "Lincraft Big Wool" cast on 25sts.
Working in Garter Stitch, knit until 13cm from beginning.
Next Row - ( K2, K2 tog) to last st, K1 - 19sts.
Knit 7 rows.
Next Row - (K1, K2 tog) to last st, K1 - 13sts.
Knit 5 rows.
Next Row - (K1, K2 tog) to last st, K1 - 9sts.

Thread yarn through remaining stitches, pull tight & fasten off.

Rosebuds - make 15.
With 4mm needles & Pink 8ply, cast on 34 sts.
Using St st throughout K2 rows.
Next Row - Decrease at the beginning of this row & every knit row until 10 rows from beginning. (To decrease neatly Sl1K1PO).

Cast off.
Leave a long length of yarn at the end of each rose & set of leaves for sewing up.

Leaves - Make 10
3 leaves are knitted as one piece of knitting to wrap around the rosebud. I only put leaves on 10 of the rosebuds otherwise there is too much foliage on the cosy. The rosebuds without leaves are then used for fillers at the end.

With 4mm needles & green 8 ply cast on 21 sts.
Next row - K across 7 sts turn & work on these sts for the first leaf.
St st another 5 rows, starting with a purl row.
Next row - Decrease each end of this row, &  every K row until there are 3 sts, ending with a P row.

Next row - Decrease in first 2 sts, K1.
Next row - P2 together.

Fasten off.

Attach yarn & work in the same way on the next 7 st left on needle, & then again with the final 7 sts to form 3 leaves joined at the cast on edge.

Putting it all together.
Sew the front & back pieces of the cosy together, about an inch at the bottom (or whatever suits your own teapot) & from the top down both sides leaving space for your spout & handle. I think mine was sewn about 11cm down from the top.

The Rosebuds

With the longest edge at the bottom, start by curling the side in & then sewing it in place from the bottom to halfway up the flower. I find this stops the inside of the rosebud from popping out. Now sew a gathering stitch along the bottom edge & pull the gather in about this much .....

Start curling the rosebud from the inside edge, the gathering stops the rosebud from looking just like a tube. Stitch the rounds in place on the bottom edge as you go. Try to keep the bottom flat. When you get to the end curl the decreased edge out as you do the last turn & stitch in place near the bottom.
You'll get the hang of it after 15 goes lol.

The Leaves
Run a gathering stitch along the bottom of the triple leaf piece. You only have to gather it up enough to fit around the bottom of the rosebud like this.

Sew it in place, I also put a tiny stitch halfway up each leaf into the rosebud to keep it close against the flower.

Now attach the rosebuds. I started with the ones with leaves, putting 3 around the top (you can put a filler one right in the middle of these at the end). Then alternate another row down from these leaving some space for 4 more filler flowers without leaves to fill up spaces. Just play around with it, until you're happy with the look.
The best way is to attach the flowers with a stitch while it's sitting on the teapot & fasten them on securely afterwards.

© Jennifer Stacey 2011

For personal use, not to be sold for profit.

That's about it.
Let me know if there are any mistakes. I did write this out very late at night, so please let me know if there's something you think I've left out, or if there is anything you don't understand.

Love Jen.

Justjen's Fester The Whole Goat

Justjen's Fester – The Whole Goat.

Fester is the goat attached to the tea cosy way back in my 2nd post. It was and will forever be attached to a thread started by "Possum" on Ravelry. I always intended to give him a body so he could climb out of the well, & seeing as the thread's 1year old in December, here's the pattern.



Fester is a tiny goat about 12.5cm tall not counting horns. He is knitted except for his horns which are crocheted. I understand a lot of people don’t crochet, so I’ll include some knitted horns in the pattern. I feel the crochet horns look more like horns but either do the job. Fester’s body & legs are knitted all in one piece so he is relatively easy to make

Amendment to pattern - knitted version of horns - after knitting horns fold in half & sew up to the point (same as crochet version), then attach to head.
                                                           
Materials

50g White 8ply/DK yarn.

Small amount Grey 8ply/DK yarn for horns & hooves.

Small amount pink yarn for nose & mouth.

2 black beads, black sewing thread for eyes – or black yarn if not using beads.

3.25mm knitting needles

4mm crochet hook if crocheting horns.

Fibrefill for stuffing.

Head – make 1

Using 3.25mm needles & white cast on 11 sts.

Row 1 – P

Row 2 – K, increasing in every st – 22 sts.

Starting with a P row st st 9 rows.

Next Row – (K2,K2tog) to last 2 sts, k2 – 17sts.

Starting with a P row st st 3 rows.

Next Row – (K2, k2 tog) to last st, k1 – 13sts.

Starting with a P row st st 5 rows.

Next Row – K2tog to last st, k1 – 7sts.

P 1 row.

Thread yarn through remaining sts & fasten off tightly. Leave a long thread for sewing up.

With right sides out & using mattress stitch, sew up seam from tip of nose (cast off end) leaving the cast on edge open for stuffing. Stuff firmly then sew a gathering st around edge & pull tightly to close, fasten off.

Ears – Make 2

With 3.25mm needles & white cast on 10sts.

St st 4 rows.

Next Row – Working in st st, decrease both ends of this row & following k rows until 2sts remain.
P one row.
K2 tog, fasten off.

Fold ear in half at the cast on edge & sew across, sew this edge to side of head, use photo as a guide.

Horns in crochet – make 2 (I’ve altered the horns a bit from the original tea cosy pattern these ones are more symmetrical. ENGLISH CROCHET TERMS USED - our English dc is equivalent to US sc


With 4mm crochet hook & grey ch 6, turn.

Miss first ch, 1dc in next 5 ch, 1ch, turn

Dc in next 4 dc, 2dc in last dc, 1ch turn,

Dc in 6dc, 1ch turn,

Dc in next 5 dc,

Fasten off.

Fold horns in half & sew up to the point.

Horns in knitting (for non-crocheters) – make 2

With 3.25 mm needles & grey cast on 9sts.

Row 1 – K

Row 2 – K, inc 1 at the end of row.

Row 3 – Inc 1, K to end.

Row 4 – K, inc 1 at end of row.

Row 5 – K

Row 6 – K to last 2 sts – k2tog.

Row 7 – K2tog, k to end.

Row 8 – K to last 2 sts – k2tog.

Cast off
Fold horns in half & sew up to the point.
Sew horns to top of head. Sew beads on for eyes. Using pink satin stitch a nose & use a back stitch for the mouth.

Upper Body – make 1

Using Grey starting at bottom of leg, co 8sts.
St st 4 rows.

Change to white & st st 14 rows.

Leave this leg on left hand needle, leaving enough yarn to cast on another 8sts.

Do another leg the same.

With the 1st then 2nd legs together on needle K across 2nd leg, cast on 8sts from first leg (for body). K across these sts & remaining 8sts from first leg – 24sts. *

St st 27 rows. #

Next row

K8, leave these on a stitch holder, cast off 8sts, K remaining 8 sts.

Working on these 8sts for leg, st st 13 rows white.

Change to grey & st st another 4 rows.

Cast off.

Transfer remaining 8sts to needle with wrong side facing. Join yarn & K 13 rows starting with a p row.

Change to grey, st st 4 rows.

Cast off.

Under Body

Work as for upper body to *.

St st 5 rows instead of 27 rows.

Continue as for upper body from #

& complete other 2 legs.

Tail

With 3.25mm needles & white cast on 6 sts.

St st 2 rows.

Dec each end of this & alternate rows until 2 sts remain.

P 1 row

K2tog fasten off.

Make Up

Under Body                         Upper Body

With right side facing out fold upper body in half along backbone. Using mattress stitch for all seams, sew down the front edge of body aprox 3cm.

Leave the back seam open for stuffing at this stage.

Join the lower body to upper body, start at the lower edge of hoof, up the inside leg across tummy & back down other leg & bottom of hoof. Do the other side the same.

View of under body.

Sew up the front of legs, until you meet up with the front seam of upper body, making sure both legs are of equal length as you sew towards the front seam. Sew the back legs up, but leave the back seam to stuff.

Stuff firmly with fibre fill, using a chopstick of something similar to push the stuffing well into the legs first, then finish stuffing body. Sew up the back seam.

Sew head to body at front top corner of body, attach it with some wide stitches to secure it. Fold tail in half a little & sew that on to the back.   All done.
Oh I forgot I didn't put a beard on him because he looks like a baby goat & kids don't have beards do they? If you want him to have one use the tail pattern it make an acceptable beard  :-)

© Jennifer Stacey 2011

For personal use, not to be sold for profit.
(Charity use allowed with my prior permission)

As always please let me know if you find any mistakes,

love Jen.

Flower Garden Tea Cosy

My last blog post for Easter. Here is the pattern for my Flower Garden Tea Cosy. This is the cosy in the background of my blog title.
 It's another tiny cosy fitting a 1 cup teapot, but at the end I've included the instructions to make a  larger  cosy. It's so easy, & the crochet flowers are a breeze as well.
Here it is, again if there are any mistakes please let me know,

Justjen’s Flower Garden Tea Cosy

                                                       

Tea cosy measures 32cm circumference, 16cm high, to fit a 1 cup Teapot.


Also included are instructions to make a cosy to fit a Teapot 39cm circumference.

Materials:

50g 8ply/DK yarn - Grass Green

50g 8ply/DK yarn – Light Blue or Aqua

50g 8ply/DK yarn – Hot Pink

25g approx. 8ply/DK yarn – Yellow

Small amount of a darker green for embroidery

6 yellow buttons

1 pr 5.5mm knitting needles

4.00 mm crochet hook

Tension – 16 sts & 23 rows over 10 x 10cm in st st using 5.5mm needles & 8ply yarn doubled.

Cosy is knitted in 2 pieces with yarn doubled.

Crochet instructions use English Terminology.

FRONT/BACK

Using 5.5mm needles & 2 strands of grass green cast on 25 sts.

Garter st 3 rows.

Starting with a knit row & continuing in green, st st 12 rows (approx. measures 6.5cm from cast on edge).

Change to Aqua & st st 12 rows

Next row (K2, K2tog) to last st, K1 - 19sts.

St st 5 rows.

Eyelet Row - K1, (Yf, K2tog, K1) to end.

St st 3 rows.

Cast Off.

Make back to match.

FLOWERS

Using 4.00mm hook & 1 strand of yellow, make 4ch, sl st into 1st ch to form ring.

1st round - 8dc into ring, join with a sl st to first dc. Fasten off.

2nd round - Join pink with a sl st to any dc, (4ch, leaving the last loop of each dtr on hook, work 2 dtr into same dc, yoh and draw through all 3 loops on hook, 4ch, sl st  into same dc (petal), sl st into next dc) repeat 7 more times working last sl st of the last repeat into the first dc of round. 8 petals made.

Fasten off. Make 6 flowers, 3 for front, 3 for back.

Using photo as a guide, sew flowers on (2 outer flowers are centred on the colour change & the centre flower a little higher). I sew the flowers on around the yellow centre then I also put a couple of holding stitches into each petal from the back to keep them looking tidy.

With a backstitch & dark green yarn, stitch in the stems & work a lazy daisy stitch for each leaf.

Sew a button on each flower centre.

You can add extra bee, ladybug or flower buttons to jazz up the garden if you wish.(I'm really trying to use up those bee buttons!!)

With a flat seam, sew up from the bottom as far as the garter stitch, & down from the top to fit your pot’s handle & spout.

Crochet a chain drawstring with yellow yarn, thread through eyelets, tying in a bow.

Being so small, this is quite a snug cosy, if you’re making it for someone elderly, instead of sewing the seam under the handle you can instead add 2 crochet ties, or a button & crochet loop to make it easier to get on & off, if you prefer.

To make a cosy to fit a Teapot 39cm circumference, 12 - 13cm high

Follow the previous instructions but

Cast on 32 sts.

Garter St 5 rows before changing to st st.

St st 14 rows green,

Change to aqua & st st 14 rows.

Next row – (k2, k2tog) to end – 24sts.

St st 5 rows

Eyelet Row – K2, (yf k2tog, k1), to last st, k1.

St st 5 rows.

Cast off.

Hope you enjoy the pattern, please let me know if there are any mistakes - Jenny

© Jennifer Stacey 2011

For personal use, not to be sold for profit.

Little Mouse Tea Cosy

Hi all,

I've given this pattern out a fair bit since I designed it last year.Someone asked me about it on Rav, so I thought it was only fair to put it up here, as quite a few people have copies of it already.

He is a tiny tea cosy, only 1 cup big. As far as I'm concerned little teapots & cosies are my favourite, probably because I'm the only tea drinker in the house. So when it's just me having a quiet cuppa, the little pots are the best, & admittedly because they are so small they need cosies to keep warm.

Of course if you were to make him in thicker yarn & bigger needles he would maybe fit a 2-3 cup pot as well.

Today I've learnt how to put a graph in pdf form into google docs, & I've learnt to link it (well not really I knew about the linking lol). I'm really loving this "blogging" thing - here's the pattern. 

Justjen's Little Mouse Tea Cosy

Justjen-knits&stitches

This is a small tea cosy to fit a 1 cup + teapot.
The teapot I used measures 34cm circumference, 12cm high.
Cosy measures 36cm circumference x 19cm high.


Materials –
100g grey 8ply/DK yarn.
Small amount white 8ply/DK yarn for tummy.
Small amount pink 8ply/DK yarn for ears & nose.
1 pair 4.00 mm knitting needles
1 pair 3.75 mm knitting needles
2 black 7mm round beads for eyes.
Stuffing
For tail – small amount dark grey 8ply/DK & 4mm crochet hook.

Tension – 21 stitches & 30 rows over 10 x 10cm square using 4mm needles & 8ply/DK.
Please check your tension

Back

Using 4mm needles & grey cast on 35sts.
Garter stitch 5 rows. *
Starting with a K row, st st until work measures 10cm from cast on edge ending with a purl row. #
Next Row (K3, K2tog) to end – 28sts.
St st 5 rows.
Next Row (K3, K2tog) to last 3 sts, K3 – 23sts.
St st 3 rows.
Next Row K2 tog to last st, K1 – 12sts.
Next Row P2 tog to end – 6sts.

Leaving a long thread for sewing up, thread yarn back through these 6 sts with a needle & draw tight.
Fasten off.

Front
Work same as Back up to *.
Starting with a K row work in Stocking st & complete graph in intarsia using a separate ball of yarn for each colour section, twisting colours at colour changes to prevent holes in work.
Graph

Continue until work measures 10cm from cast on edge ending with a purl row. Continue from # as for Back

Mouse Head
Using 3.75mm needles & grey starting at back of head cast on 12 sts.
Next Row Increase in every st – 24 sts.
St st 5 rows.
Next Row increase 4sts evenly across row – 28sts.
St st 11 rows.
Next Row K3, SKPO, K3, SKPO, K8, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K3 – 24sts
St st 3 rows.
Next Row K3, SKPO, K2, SKPO, K6, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K3 – 20sts.
Purl 1 row.
Next Row SKPO, K1, SKPO, K1, SKPO, K4, K2tog, K1, K2tog, K1, K2tog – 14sts.
Purl 1 row.
Next Row SKPO 3 times, K2, K2tog 3 times – 8sts.
Purl 1 Row.
Next Row K2tog to end – 4sts.
Thread yarn back through sts with needle & pull tightly.
Fasten Off leaving a long thread for sewing.

Front Legs - make 2
Starting at top of leg, using 3.75mm needles & grey cast on 6sts.
Next Row Increase in every stitch – 12sts.
St st 23 rows.
Next Row K2 tog to end – 6 sts.
Thread yarn back through sts & pull tight.
Fasten off.

Hind Legs - make 2

1st Hind Leg
Starting at top of leg, using 3.75mm needles & grey cast on 6sts.
Increase in every st – 12sts.
St st. 3 rows.
Next Row (K1,M1) to last st – increase in last st – 24sts.
St st 5 rows.
Next Row (K3, K2tog) to last 4 sts, K 4 – 20sts
Purl 1 row.
Next Row (K3, K2tog) to end - 16sts.
Purl 1 row.
Next Row (K2, K2tog) to end – 12sts. *
Purl 1 row.
Shape foot -
Next Row cast on 12sts at beginning of row, K to end – 24sts.
St st 5 rows.
Cast off.

2nd Hind Leg.
Work as for 1st hind leg to * .
Next row (purl row) cast on 12 sts at beginning of row. Purl across all sts – 24sts.
St st 6 rows.
Cast off.

Ears make 2
Using 3.75mm needles & grey cast on 5sts. Increase in every st – 10sts.
St st 7 rows grey then change to 4 rows pink.
Next row: K2tog to end – 5sts.
Cast off.

Making Up
Sew in ends not needed for assembly.
Place front & back of cosy together, right sides out, using a flat seam sew up
from bottom for 2cm.

Sew from cast off edge at top of cosy, down both sides aprox 6cm each side. Adjust this to fit your own teapot’s spout & handle positions.

At back of head, with right side out, run a gathering stitch at cast on edge, pulling tight to make back of head – secure.
Continue from here, sew head seam using a flat seam, from this point and also from the nose end, leaving a gap in the middle of head seam for stuffing. (head seam sits along the bottom of head).
Stuff firmly, but be careful not to overstuff the nose, or you’ll loose the “mousey look”.

Ears – I could have knitted the ears with more shaping, but because they are so small, I found the shaping & the sewn seam quite messy for my liking. I preferred to knit them fairly straight, then gather the edges down to give a seamless look around the edge of the ear. With right sides out, fold in half, and as you sew the side seams of each ear gather your stitches to bring the top edges down to make them more curved. Sew each ear in position (see photo for placement).

Sew beads on for eyes, (a long doll needle is ideal) bury your wool at the head seam (where head will be sewn onto body so it will be hidden). Sew one bead in position then go across to 2nd bead, this way you can give the head a little more shaping by pulling the face in a bit with the 2 beads. Take needle back down to head seam, fasten off & bury yarn.

Embroider nose with pink yarn.
Sew head to cosy, this is easier if you put the cosy on the teapot for placement.

Front legs – with right sides out join seam & stuff, stuffing very lightly near top of leg. Join to cosy at shoulder aprox halfway between head & opening for spout/handle.

Back legs – with right sides out fold leg in half & sew from top of leg down to beginning of foot. Fold foot section back on to itself so the wrong side is facing out - photo 1.
Sew along top of foot and turn right side out again, now continue sewing leg to foot. – photo 2, this is the inside of the leg & the seam will be hidden by the body.

   

        






You will still have the sole of the foot open. Stuff leg & foot lightly & sew up seam on sole. Sew to front of body in front of side seam.

Tail - to give him a tail, using dark grey 8ply/DK & 4mm crochet hook, ch 26, miss 1st ch, dc (sc – US) in each ch to end, fasten off. Sew tail curving up back of cosy.

Optional.
While I do line some of my cosies, this one is tiny, & a snug fit already for the pot mentioned, so I think it will be too bulky.
If you wish you can crochet (dc) (sc – US) around spout & handle openings to neaten.

Please let me know if I have made any mistakes, or if there is something you don’t understand.

Hope you enjoy the pattern.

© Jennifer Stacey 2010

For personal use, not to be sold for profit.

Justjen's Easy Ripple Tea Cosy

 I'm still fiddling around with ripple stitch, remembering how much I love doing it after making the last cushion. I was so tempted to start another ripple blankie, but I need to finish the one I'm doing with squares first,
(I have done 3 squares so far, I'm definitely a bludger).
Of course I had to make a cosy instead. I wanted to make an easy tea cosy with a simple modern look.                                                       

I've made ripple stitch cosies before, like this one in the 2nd photo (the pattern for this cosy is not included on this page)
but it was huge & it took an obscene amount of yarn to crochet it.

I 've used the same ripple stitch as the cushion, but I've adapted it to fit a couple of different sized cosies, by changing the amount of dcs between the v's.

Helpful Advice 
I've edited this pattern advice several times, as the success of this pattern lies with using the correct yarn & the correct tension. Please read - thanks.

*The pattern states to use, & is designed for 8ply/DK yarn & 4mm hook to give the correct size.
If you use a thicker yarn like 10/12 ply in the size patterns I've included, the cosy will end up too LARGE for the specified Teapot. Of course you can experiment with other yarns but I can't guarantee success.   
*Please check your tension before you start, especially if you are a loose crocheter (I am an average tension crocheter) you may have to use a smaller hook, or use the smaller pattern for best results.
*The largest size cosy is made to generously fit a large 6 cup teapot. As all teapots are different I've included the width & height of both teapots I used to help with sizing.
If you have a 6 cup pot which is smaller in circumference yet taller, you will have to adjust the pattern by perhaps using the smaller size, & doing more rounds which is suggested in the pattern.
Funnily enough if you decide not to crochet into the back of every stitch as is in the pattern, the cosy will make up a little wider in size as well (I experimented with this lol).
*When you first start crocheting, the width of the cosy will seem too wide for the given pot. As you continue, the ripples will start to form & draw in the width of the cosy.
Hope this is helpful - Jen.

                                                                  Easy Ripple Tea Cosy

Cosy on left will fit a 6 cup teapot, cosy measures 44cm circumference, 19cm tall. Cosy on right fits a 3-4 cup teapot, cosy measures 40cm circumference, 15cm tall.

© Jennifer Stacey 2011

                                                   For personal use, not to be sold for profit

You'll need 8ply/DK yarn, oddments of each colour, 4mm (G) crochet hook & some cute buttons.

The buttons I used were from a large novelty bag of buttons from Spotlight.

Pattern uses English crochet terminology.

Tension - 17 dc over 10cm using 4mm (g) hook - tension checked over a straight piece of crochet, not over the ripple stitch pattern. Please check your tension, the wrong tension /yarn will affect the finished size.

Terms -

dec over next 3 sts - insert hook in next st, yo & draw up a loop, miss next st, insert hook in next st, yo & draw up a loop, yo & draw through all 3 loops on hook.

dec over next 2 sts - Insert hook in next st, yo & draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo & draw up a  loop, yo & draw through all 3 loops on hook.

6 CUP COSY
MAKE 2 -FRONT & BACK 
Foundation Row - Make 64 ch, miss first ch, 1dc in next 9 ch * 3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 9 ch, dec over next 3 ch, 1 dc in next 9 ch. Repeat from * to last 10 ch, 3dc in next ch, 1 dc in next 9 ch.

1st row - Work in back loop of every dc to give a ridged effect.

1ch, dec over next 2 sts, 1dc in next 8dc * 3dc in next dc (which should be the middle dc of the 3dc in last row), 1dc in next 9 dc, dec over next 3sts, 1 dc in next 9 dc. Repeat from * to last 11 sts, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 8dc, dec over last 2 sts.

Repeat 1st row, working in stripes of 6 rows, or as you like. Keep working until the top point of the ripples when brought in to the middle, just clear the top of your pot, adding a little height for a seam allowance.

Remembering, the bottom flaps of the cosy will be turned up to produce a flat edge on the bottom, so make your measurement from that folded edge.

My cosy had 30 rows all up, but measure yours for a good fit, as all pots are different.
Just a hint, if you come to the correct height & you're only a couple of rows into a new colour, you're better off going back & continuing with the last stripe colour instead. You'll find otherwise when you join up the top you'll loose your new colour in the seam.

 Assembly

Use what threads you have at the sides to do your seams, sew in all others you won't use.

Sew the side seams. From the bottom, sew the seam in reverse (to the outside of the cosy) only for this section under the spout & handle. When you turn the flap up you will then have a neat finish on the outside.

Hope you can see from the photo what I mean.

Now sew the sides together down from the top using a normal seam (you don't do this in reverse), to fit above your handle & spout.

Turn the cosy inside out to sew the top. You'll be sewing the edges of the triangles together, so that all the points are brought into the centre. You'll get a better finish if you do a backstitch seam about 1 row in, instead of a flat seam. The pieces really need to be taken in a bit to get a good fit. Pin first if you want to check for fit (I love to pin).

If you find you have a little hole in the centre just gather it in & fasten off.

Hopefully it will look like this if you can follow my primitive directions lol. I'm really loving that green & purple, what would the world be like without colour!

Almost done, now you get to play with buttons.

You'll have a cosy which looks like this (left) unless I've totally led you astray. As you can see from the previous photo I didn't put a button under the spout & handle but just folded the flap up & stitched it in place. Fold the other flaps up to create your flat bottom edge, & sew on your buttons.

Don't forget your button, flower, big flashy jewel, anything you like to go on the top.

 All done.

Now to make the smaller one, here are the 2 rows you'll need.

4 CUP COSY

MAKE 2 - FRONT & BACK

Foundation Row

Make 58ch, miss first ch, dc in next 8ch *3dc in next ch, 1dc in next 8ch, dec over next 3ch, 1dc in next 8ch. Repeat from * to last 9ch, 3dc in next ch, 1 dc in next 8ch.

,

1st Row - Work in the back of each dc,

1ch, dec over next 2 dc, 1dc in next 7dc, *3dc in next dc (which should be the centre dc of the 3dc from the previous row) 1dc in next 8dc, dec over next 3 sts, 8dc. Repeat from * to last 10 sts, 3dc in next dc, 1dc in next 7dc, dec over last 2 sts.

Continue 1st row as with the first cosy. This one has stripes of 4 rows each, 24 rows all up, but again you can do your own thing depending on your pot.

If you want to make a smaller cosy again, use 7 dc between ripples. Calculate how many ch you need to start with, by marking the pattern out on paper first - easy.

I hope you like this one, I love the buttons & the colours, so it ended up being a successful experiment.

Not all of my experiments are successful, but you don't get to see those lol.

Please let me know if there are any bungles in the pattern, or if there is anything you don't understand,

love Jenny.

ETA 1/9/2011

Added instructions to make a 6 cup cosy in Noro Kureyon,

Just thought I'd add this one I've made in Noro Kureyon.

This one fits my 6cup teapot snugly, I used a 4.5mm hook (there is no recommended hook size on the Kureyon label, only needle size) which gave me a nice warm cosy. I started with 52ch to make 7 dc between ripples. I did 24 rows but I reckon 23rows may have just been enough for my teapot, but measure as you go for your own pot.

© Jennifer Stacey 2011

For personal use, not to be sold for profit